I arrived in Kakopetria, the mountain village where time seems to slow down and stone streets glow under the Cypriot sun. Chrysanthis sits on a quiet corner, its weathered façade and wooden sign inviting locals and travelers alike to step inside. The moment I pushed open the door, a wave of charcoal-smoke and citrusy herbs wrapped around me, and a friendly host led me to a shaded courtyard table where a breeze rustled through the olive trees overhead. The welcome was warm and unhurried, as if I had walked into a friend’s taverna rather than a commercial dining room. A small mezze spread was placed in front of us while we waited for the main event. We started with warm bread, crisp on the outside and pillow-soft inside, accompanied by a trio of dips—tahini with a kiss of lemon, garlicky skordalia, and a bright, olive-oil-laden tomato dip. Olives, chunks of halloumi grilled to a perfect kiss of char, and a fresh village salad followed. The ingredients tasted like they were picked from a garden just this morning: tomatoes bursting with sweetness, cucumbers crackling with crunch, and red onions that gave a gentle sharpness to balance the olive oil and herbs. Then the star appeared. The souvla, Cyprus’s legendary social centerpiece, was wheeled out on a long spit, the meat turning slowly as flames licked the sides and filled the air with savory smoke. The chef teased the edge with a deft turn, and slices were carved onto a plate with careful, almost ceremonial precision. The meat was tender and juicy, the exterior caramelized and savory, a contrast that spoke of patient slow cooking and generous seasoning—oregano, garlic, lemon, and a touch of salt carrying through every bite. A squeeze of lemon over the top released a bright, mouth-watering note that danced with the smoky depth of the grill. Alongside the souvla, we sampled a few traditional Cypriot dishes that showcased the country’s rustic culinary soul. A plate of xoriatiko-style pork followed—think hearty, home-style pork done Cypriot-ate with a simple, comforting philosophy: let the meat shine. It arrived with potatoes roasted in herbs, the skin crisp and the inside juicy enough to melt on the tongue. The flavors were straightforward yet deeply satisfying, the kind of dishes that feel almost nourishing in their familiarity. To cleanse the palate, we sipped on a glass of local wine and finished with a light, honeyed dessert—something traditionally Cypriot, offering a gentle sweetness that lingered after the last bite. The service remained attentive but unobtrusive, with staff quick to refill bread and water, check on our progress, and share a few stories about Kakopetria’s history and the family-run nature of Chrysanthis. As we lingered over coffee and watched the sun soften the village’s stone walls to a warm amber, I felt a rare sense of contentment. The meal had been a vivid tapestry of Cypriot flavors—simple, hearty, and deeply rooted in place. Chrysanthis isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a doorway into Kakopetria’s culinary heartbeat, where the ritual of souvla is celebrated with warmth, generosity, and a respect for tradition. Practical tips for your visit: - Timing: Lunchtime is ideal, especially on sunny days when the courtyard is most pleasant. Weekends can be busier, so consider arriving a bit earlier to snag a good table. - Seating: If you prefer a view of the grill, ask for a spot near the kitchen; the aroma and sight of the turning souvla are part of the experience. - Sharing style: Meze-style dining works beautifully here. Sharing plates lets you explore the range of Cypriot flavors without rushing. - What to try: Start with bread and dips, move to the souvla, and pair with a simple pork or lamb xoriatiko dish. Finish with a Cypriot coffee or a small dessert to end the meal on a sweet note. - Getting there: Kakopetria is a short drive from Nicosia and is best enjoyed as part of a village stroll, especially in the late afternoon when the light on the old stone walls is particularly magical. If you’re after an authentic Cypriot lunch that feels both timeless and welcoming, Chrysanthis in Kakopetria delivers a memorable feast that lingers in the memory long after the last bite.